This calculator uses the average watt rating (100 Watts) for a Aquariums. You can input your Aquariums’s details to calculate the exact usage and cost of your device.
Enter how many hours per day you estimate you run your Aquariums. If it is less than one hour use a decimal. For example, 30 minutes would be .5 and 15 minutes would be .25.
Input the wattage of your Aquariums. If you are unsure enter the average wattage for a Aquariums: 63.
The average Aquariums uses 63 watts. Your devices wattage may be different depending on the brand, size, or other factors. You can generally find the wattage of your Aquariums in the user manual or on the device itself.
Enter the price per kilowatt-hour (kWh) you pay for electricity. If you are unsure you can use the average rate per kWh in the US (10 cents) or find the kWh rate in your area here.
The operating electrical equipment determines the amount of energy used and how long it is on, not the size of the fish tank. These include filters, lights, powerheads, heaters, protein skimmers, air pumps, water pumps, etc.
The electric usage of aquariums is considered the most expensive part of keeping an aquarium, followed by food and maintenance supplies.
To help you save while still enjoying the beautiful view of fish swimming in your aquariums, here are some tips and information to help you.
The annual consumption for a small tank (10 gallons) is roughly 150 kWh based on a freshwater fish-only aquarium operating at a temperature of 72 F.
On the other hand, a large aquarium (55 gallons) requires 200 to 400 kWh annually, but a medium tank (30 gallons) uses 150 to 200 kWh.
These figures are determined simply as an average while considering the minimal equipment needed.
The aquarium itself does not contribute to your household's electric or energy costs, but the equipment installed does.
About 45 percent of the entire cost is devoted to the lighting system, where most of the consumption is spent. The heater typically costs around 35 percent less than the total. Air pumps and other extra devices make up the remaining 8%, whereas filters usually operate at approximately 12%. Once more, this is based on a typical tank layout.
The lighting is the only aquarium component that doesn't operate on a 24-hour cycle. Additionally, the lighting schedule and the tools we employ make it simple to manage lighting costs.
The typical fluorescent light bulb (15–40 Watts), included with most hoods, doesn't add much to the price. Higher lighting requirements for planted tanks that use power compacts (30–100 Watts), VHO fluorescent bulbs (75–160 Watts), or a combination of the two will result in higher power usage. Even metal halides, which can use 150 to 1000 Watts, power a reef tank would drastically increase the cost.
Heater in tanks. Additionally, heating an aquarium can be costly. The amount of heat needed increases with tank size. Additionally, compared to non-tropical fish tanks, a tropical fish environment often demands a higher water temperature, making it more expensive to heat. As an illustration, a 30-gallon tank heated to 72 F (22 C) will use around—110 kWh per year. The identical tank will use roughly 440 kWh per year when heated to 82 F (28 C). That is a fourfold increase!
Other equipment. Depending on the gallon per hour (gph) rate, water pumps can easily vary from 3 Watts to 400 Watts. As a rough guide, 10 Watts corresponds to 200 gph and 30 Watts to 300 gph. 600 gph and higher can use up to 150 Watts.
Powerheads, air pumps, and filters have low power requirements, often consuming 3 to 25 to 50 Watts for heavy-duty units. UV filters use 8 to 130 Watts or more to operate.
A fish-only aquarium often has a minimal operating cost.
The tank size will be essential and increase expense, as will a tank that is saltwater in the end and a reef tank in the future.
Using energy-efficient lighting in your aquarium can help you save money over time, just as using energy-saving light bulbs around the house can significantly reduce your energy costs. Compared to incandescent or halide bulbs, fluorescent lights are more efficient. Additionally, you can save money by simply utilizing lights for as long as is necessary, such as eight hours per day. Moonlight LED lights can be employed in different locations, casting low light levels and using less energy than the primary aquarium lights.
Different power levels of filters are available. If you're unsure what kind of filter you need, check your aquarium handbook or ask a professional for guidance. You need to choose one that is the right size and wattage for your aquarium. Additionally, you might be able to change the filter's settings to keep it running at its most energy-efficient speed.
Your aquarium's temperature needs to be set based on the kind of fish you keep there. If you are uncertain of the ideal temperature required, see a professional. Once you have this number, check your tank's temperature and lower it if it is higher than it should be. While an aeration stone placed beneath the heater will assist in circulating cold water to the heater and dispersing warmed water, you might also consider using solar energy. In addition to being more effective and durable, low output heaters endure longer than high output heaters.
Also, consider the location of your aquarium because if it is already in a heated space, less heating will be required. Utilizing polystyrene or a substance comparable to it as insulation beneath the aquarium and between the aquarium's outer wall and the walls of the room or cabinet will help reduce heat loss. Ensuring your aquarium is at least somewhat insulated is one of the best ways to lower its heating expenses, just as loft and cavity wall insulation can significantly minimize home heat loss.